A Love of Spices from Past Generations

Christina Arokiasamy, author of The Spice Merchant's Daughter: Recipes and Simple Spice Blends for the American Kitchen, writes of the influence her parents and grandparents have on her cooking today.

Commitment:  You begin the introduction to your wonderful book, The Spice Merchant's Daughter:  Recipes and Simple Spice Blends for the American Kitchen, with “It was the aroma.” What is it about scents that are so evocative?

Christina Arokiasamy:  I’ve always believed that among all our 5 senses, the sensation of smell is one of the most arousing and powerful of all. Aroma, it can take us places in our mind and remind us of the beautiful memories or experiences we have had.

I still remember the aromas of my childhood – the scent of spices greeting me daily, even before I could see the spices, drying on the veranda. The scent of my mother’s exquisite cardamom butter rice drifting in the air, from the moment I walked into the house. Today, scents still evoke a passion in me especially when it comes to food that’s aromatic; I feel I’m breathing life.

Commitment:  Your family history clearly inspired your love of spices. Your great-great-grandfather was the captain of a merchant ship owned by the English East India Company, transporting spices to and from India, Malaysia and the Indonesian Archipelago. Your great-grandfather's family lived in the colony of Trancobar, a major Portuguese spice center. Your grandparents settled in Malaysia where they traded spices. Your mother ran a successful spice business in Kuala Lumpur, and you grew up amidst the bright colors and scents of turmeric, cardamom and cumin. Can even those of us without such an illustrative history appreciate spices?

Christina:  In a way, I think that dealing with spices is romantic.  Although, I come from a family with roots in spices, the love and appreciation for spices was not placed in me rather it grew in me through exposure.

When I teach my students about spices, I always pass a few cinnamon sticks, cardamom pods or fennel seeds around as they are highly aromatic. I encourage my students to rub the spices between their fingers and smell the sensational oils; they are often marveled at the fragrances these spices release and ultimately bring flavor to the dishes. Get to know individual spice for its uniqueness and you will come to love it in time. And when you love something; you desire to hold on to it forever.

Commitment:  What are the essential spices that each kitchen should have?
 
Christina:  Cinnamon, Cloves, Star Anise, Cumin Seeds, Anise seeds, Fennel Seeds, Pepper, Chilies, Cardamom Pods and Coriander Seeds are certainly useful.
 
Commitment:  How can those who are not familiar with cooking with spices start?
 
Christina:  I would say, start with one or two basic spices; for instance half a teaspoon of cumin seeds and 1 cinnamon stick, add these to hot oil in a sauté pan to kick start your cooking. Immediately you’ve seasoned the oil and have added some complexity that will add layer flavors to the dish you are making. Alternatively, ground a few selected spices and sprinkle them on your food before cooking. Spices are the most versatile ingredients. Each spice is an educational journey to creating new flavors, tastes and dishes.

Commitment:  What should a cook know before she starts to experiment with spices?

Christina:  Well before you experiment, remember spices are raw organic matter, grown and harvested for its unique aroma and flavor. All spices have a shelf life. The aromatic oil will start to fade in 6 to 8 months as a result you lose the impact of the spice over time. So if you’re cooking with a one year old container of spice, you are missing out the actual aromatic benefit it’s supposed to deliver. In The Spice Merchant’s Daughter, you’ll learn how to experiment with spices, it shows you the spices that pair well with vegetables, meat and seafood, how to use them correctly and helpful tips on how to revive them.

Commitment:  Where can one purchase spices?
  
Christina:  We are fortunate that many grocery stores, gourmet markets, Whole Foods and local Indian markets in every city throughout North America carry spices on their shelves; some even have very fine quality spices for sale. For those who prefer to shop on the internet, the selection is plenty. When it comes to purchasing spices, “aromatic and unadulterated” should be one’s kitchen mantra.

Commitment:  Not only do spices add unique flavors, but many have healing powers as well! What are some of the most healthful spices?
 
Christina:  Many families in Southeast Asia believe spices alleviate various ailments. For instance, we believe ginger is more than a spice. A warm cup of ginger tea helps relieve cold.  At home, we use chilies to help burn ama or toxins and relieve indigestion. We consume cumin to improve circulation and aid digestion. Coriander seeds help alleviate nausea and vomiting and fenugreek helps reduce cholesterol. Spices are a natural source of antioxidants and keep us in great health just as fruits, vegetables, grains and nuts.
 
Commitment:  Is it best to use spices in pastes, rubs or sauces?

Christina:  In fact you can use spices in pastes, rubs and sauces with noticeably delicious results. When spices are blended into pastes, use it to begin a braised or curry dish. Spices combined to make rubs are rich and complex; use it to coat meat, poultry or fish before grilling or baking only. Then by whipping up interesting pantry seasonings like Soy sauce or Worcestershire sauce with fresh aromatics and dry spices, you create exceptional sauces. Use sauces to marinate food before cooking. It’s really fascinating.

Commitment:  Most of us associate spices with savory dishes. Can they be used in desserts?
 
Christina:  Absolutely, spices such as saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, all spice and nutmeg, make desserts simply heavenly. The Cinnamon Chocolate cake is one of my favorite desserts – luscious and velvety with each bite. The recipe is available in my book.

Commitment: What are some of your favorite childhood recipes?

Christina:  Most of all my childhood meals were tenderly prepared by my mother at home. As such, I have many favorite recipes of my mothers lovely cooking but definitely I would say Whole Spice Roasted Chicken, Mild Coconut Curry with Tomatoes, Creamy Split Lentil Soup, Fried Tilapia coated with Turmeric and Sea Salt and of course Crêpes with Coconut Syrup were my Sunday favorites. I also love a particular dish called ‘thenga apam’. On school holidays, my grandmother would make this griddle hot rice pancakes and top them with freshly squeezed coconut milk. Delicate and sweet but not cloying; I still find this dish irresistible.  Many of my childhood recipes are also in The Spice Merchant’s Daughter.

Commitment:  How can parents introduce their children to foods with new flavors, colors and scents?
 
Christina:  Encourage your children to assist in preparing family meals daily. Small tasks such as peeling the carrots, sugar snap peas or ginger, seasoning the fish or chicken, washing the herbs all make them aware of how raw ingredients of every shape, color and texture can be transformed into delicious cuisine. Allow them to see what’s happening in the pot, so that they too can experience the scents of a home cooked meal. 

I know that children will want to taste what they have helped put together.
 
I love the opportunity when asked to volunteer for a cooking class in my children’s school. From first to seventh grade, the kids and I have so much fun in the school kitchen with their teachers joining in on the occasion.  Recently, we sautéed brown rice pilaf in cardamom butter then tossed in some carrots and plump raisins, coated pieces of chicken with turmeric and sea salt then pan fried them and baked salmon with savory coriander cumin spice rub. Oh the kids were ecstatic as they discovered the joy of creating healthy yet delicious dishes.  

In Asia, gourmet food cooked with spices is not just for the wealthy, it’s for everyone.  In fact, millions of children in Asia are still eating healthy home cooked food every day. 
I believe the children in America are the same; in fact here they have more choices, they just need to be exposed and given the opportunity to try new flavors at each sitting. As parents,        we can shape our children’s thinking about food and bring the pleasures of healthy eating to them. And when they eat this way, they are going to feel fantastic and of course, healthy.

Of Indian descent but raised in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Christina Arokiasamy’s culinary career began with her family’s catering and spice business in Malaysia. Surrounded by spices and cooking as a child, she decided to pursue a career involving both. After her culinary training at Malaysia’s Hyatt Regency; the Four Seasons Resort in Chiang Mai, Thailand; and the Four Seasons Resort in Bali, Indonesia; Christina moved to America and opened the Spice Merchant’s Cooking School in the Pacific Northwest, dedicated to the craft of cooking with the flavors, ingredients, and passion of Southeast Asia. Christina also holds demonstrations as a guest chef at various culinary schools across the region, including Williams-Sonoma and Sur La Table. A member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) and the spokesperson for the Visit Malaysia Year 2007 campaign in Washington state, Christina also remains active in her homeland, leading culinary and cultural tours twice a year. She lives in Seattle with her family. THE SPICE MERCHANT'S DAUGHTER is her first cookbook. For more information, visit her online at www.spicemerchantsdaughter.com.

To purchase The Spice Merchant's Daughter, click here.