Portland, Oregon Restaurant Owner Lisa Schroder Talks About Her New Cookbook "Mother's Best: Comfort Food That Takes You Home Again."
Chef Lisa grew up enjoying the great cooking of her mother Belle, so at age 35 she enrolled in The Culinary Institute of America and spent eight years learning how to run a restaurant, "learning everything I could so I'd be successful off the bat."
Lisa Schroeder is the owner of "Mother's Bistro & Bar" and "Mama Mia Trattoria" two highly successful restaurants in Portland, Oregon. She opened her restaurants after realizing that there were few places where a busy working mother could pick-up slow-cooked 'mother food.'
She recalls, "That's when I decided the world needed a restaurant called "Mother's" where I would serve slow-cooked food made with love from scratch from mothers around the world."
Each month, her restaurant features a "Mother of the Month" that celebrates original recipes from different mothers, and her restaurant features a different macaroni and cheese combination each day.
In her new book, "Mother's Best" she shares these 'mother-inspired' recipes, with the goal of filling the void for women whose mothers did not teach them to cook. Lisa explains, "So “Mother’s Best” was written in the voice of a mother teaching her adult child how to cook, with very detailed, explicit directions and a lot of hand-holding, so mistakes are avoided before they happen."
Commitment: What led you to a life of cooking, opening your own restaurants in Portland, Oregon "Mother's Bistro & Bar" and "Mama Mia Trattoria"?
Lisa Schroeder: I was always surrounded by good food. My mother, Belle, had a restaurant before I was born, and made everything she served. She was an excellent cook and I ate very well growing up.
When raising my daughter, I was working 13-hour days in marketing for Weight Watchers International and simultaneously running a small catering business on the side. I therefore had little time to spare for cooking at home and frequently picked up take-out food.
While there were plenty of places to get Chinese, Mexican or pizza, I realized that there was no place to get "Mother Food" -- the food that I would make if I had the time. That's when I decided the world needed a restaurant called "Mother's" where I would serve slow-cooked food made with love from scratch from mothers around the world.
In addition, I realized that life was too short to not spend it doing what I love, so decided to make my part-time business my full-time career.
So in 1993, at the age of 35, I signed up to attend The Culinary Institute of America and spent the next eight years getting ready to open the restaurant of my dreams, learning everything I could so I’d be successful off the bat.
Mother's Bistro & Bar opened January, 2000, and we fed 90 people our first lunch. I opened Mama Mia Trattoria in August 2004, mainly because I couldn’t get southern Italian food in Portland, Oregon to save my life. I craved “old school” Italian favorites like chicken parmesan, spaghetti and meatballs and fresh made mozzarella, but realized that in order to get it, I’d have to be the one to make it!
Commitment: What motivated you to write a cookbook highlighting comfort foods that pay homage to mothers? What is it about Mom's cooking and comfort foods that is something we all enjoy during life's hard times?
Lisa: One of the reasons I wrote "Mother's Best" is because I was getting asked for my recipes daily, so it was partly for selfish reasons. But the other reason is that many of our mothers never cooked for us or taught us how to cook, and I wanted to fill that void.
Many cookbooks written today assume readers know what blanching or sautéing is, but I don’t think that’s the case. So “Mother’s Best” was written in the voice of a mother teaching her adult child how to cook, with very detailed, explicit directions and a lot of hand-holding, so mistakes are avoided before they happen.
In addition, I am afraid that we may lose the recipes of our collective mothers if someone doesn’t document them, so that’s why I work with our Mothers of the Month (M.O.M.), measure their handfuls and pinches, and refine their recipes so they’re the best they can be.
Commitment: At your restaurant, you created a Mother of the Month or "M.O.M." Menu, where you celebrate original recipes from a different mother each month. Can you tell us about three of the mothers you have featured at your restaurant, and the recipes from them that you shared with your customers?
Lisa: I created the Mother of the Month because I wanted to keep life interesting, have seasonal specials (we feature mothers from cold climates in the winter months and warm climates in the summer months), and honor mothers everyday at Mother’s Bistro & Bar. I usually develop a close relationship to the mothers I have featured, but a few stand out.
One is Jan Bocuzzi, an effervescent and fun woman from Bari, Italy. She has four adult daughters and still insists they come for dinner a few nights a week. She makes her own cheese, wine and cans cases of tomatoes in the summer. She does a stuffed eggplant with bread and cheese filling that’s to die for.
Another M.O.M. was Sophia Damiani. Sophia is Greek , and got married to her American husband after knowing him just a few days. Neither one spoke the other’s language, but their marriage lasted until he died a few years ago. She taught me about great Greek dishes, including Moussaka (eggplant lasagna) and Fashoulakia (green bean stew), which were on her menu for the month.
Another one of my favorite mothers is Therese Deringer. She moved to America from Hungary during World War II. She not only managed her household and tree farm but was also a cook at the local school. She gave it up when so many cutbacks meant she’d have to serve pre-made food, but that just allowed her to have more time to cook for her family. She was written up in “The Oregonian” for her amazing hand made struedel dough, and she makes a terrific chicken paprikash and delicious spaetzle (tiny dumplings)
Commitment: You operate two very successful restaurants, a dream of many cooks. Why do you think your restaurants are so popular and successful? What advice do you have for women who dream of opening a restaurant?
Lisa: My restaurants are successful because I work my tail off to make it so. I not only cook, but I develop all the specials and menus, do the marketing, advertising, networking and care about every single aspect of my business, front of house and back of house.
I am there most of the time, working at least 14 hours a day. Even my days off are spent getting to the emails and other things I can’t tackle during the work week. I check the quality of all the food coming in and out of my kitchen and taste nearly everything everyday I work.
When I can’t be a two places at the same time, make sure I train, train, train the people who work for me so they know what I expect.
My first bit of advice for anyone thinking of opening a restaurant is “don’t!” And if one is thinking of getting into the business, it should never be for the money, because there are hundreds of ways to make more money and work less making it.
If, in spite of that someone still wants to open a restaurant, my next piece of advice would be work in the business for a few years, do as many different jobs as you can and learn the biz from the inside out. That way you’ll know what you’re getting into.
And because there is nothing you won’t be able to do, you won’t be hung out to dry when someone calls in sick or comes in hung over, or doesn’t show up at all.
There’s nothing I can’t do in my restaurants, whether cooking on the line, making a drink, serving a table or seating a guest, and it allows me to garner the respect of my staff and the appreciation from my guests.
Commitment: What are some of your tips for making a great salad? What salad in the book do you find yourself making for yourself often?
Lisa: I love Mama Mia Trattoria’s Italian Chopped Salad – it’s an antipasto and all the food groups in a bowl.
The key to a good salad is balance of all tastes
– sweet (like raisins, dried cranberries/cherries or fresh fruit like oranges or strawberries), sour (vinegar, lemon or lime juice), salty (in the dressing or in a cheese), bitter (the greens) and umami (salami, nuts, cheeses).
If a little of all the above are in your salad, it’s got to be good!
Commitment: You feature your own mother's chicken soup recipe in the book. Can you tell us about your Mom, Belle Cohen Schroeder and the lessons she gave you when it came to food and cooking?
Lisa: My mother had a restaurant before I was born and was a successful businesswoman in the 50’s before it was fashionable. She did it because she had to support her daughters (my sisters) and because she was good at it. It was clearly in her genes, like it’s in mine.
She was a great cook, and while I didn’t get to see her in action in her restaurant, I got to experience her wonderful meals daily while growing up.
She would also host lavish dinner parties replete with décor, serving pieces and wonderful menus. Unfortunately, she didn’t believe in sharing the knowledge with me, so everything I learned was through osmosis. I was usually kicked out of the kitchen while she worked.
Her legacy is a great palate and an inherent ability to cook well and make delicious food.
Commitment: Can you share with us a favorite recipe in the book that a lot of your customers return to your restaurant for?
Lisa: Yes! People love our pot roast, so here’s the recipe…
Perfect Pot Roast
Makes 6 to 8 servings
This is by far the most popular dish on our menu at Mother's Bistro & Bar, and it typifies what we do best – slow-cooked foods made with the best possible ingredients. Braised dishes usually include browned meat, sautéed aromatic vegetables, and a flavorful cooking liquid.
I like to braise in the oven because the heat is indirect, so foods cook more evenly and there’s less chance of a hot spot in the pan scorching the food.
Like most braised dishes, pot roast freezes and reheats well, so if you want leftovers, double or triple the recipe. (Take a look at the Love Notes for more braising tips.) Mother’s Smashers are a great foil for the rich, deep flavors of the gravy.
4 pounds beef chuck (see Love Note 1), tied if desired
3 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup vegetable oil
3 medium yellow onions, coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)
½ pound (about 4) carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped (about 2 cups)
3 ribs celery (2 cups), coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic
3/4 cup tomato purée
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup dry red wine, such as cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel or Côtes du Rhône
1 bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, 2 sprigs thyme and 3 sprigs parsley)
6 to 10 cups beef or veal stock or canned low-sodium beef broth
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using a sharp knife, trim off any excess fat or gristle from the meat. Season with salt and pepper (you might need to use less salt if you’re using canned broth, which already has salt).
2. Choose a Dutch oven or stockpot just large enough to hold the meat in a single layer (too big and you'll need too much liquid, which will dilute the flavors of the dish. Too small and the meat won't cook evenly).
Place the pan over high heat for several minutes until hot. (You need a very hot pan to brown, caramelize, and develop flavor in the meat, otherwise it will steam in its own juices and turn bland and gray instead.) When hot, add the oil and heat until shimmering (adding the oil after the pan is hot keeps it from breaking down and getting smoky while the pan heats). Add the beef and brown on all sides (Love Note 2). Transfer meat to a plate or baking sheet and set aside.
3. Reduce heat to medium high. Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic to the pot (since they will cook for a few hours, they can be cut into larger pieces); cook until lightly browned, stirring occasionally. Adjust the heat to medium and continue cooking until very soft, about 20 minutes. Stir in the tomato purée, increase heat to medium-high, and cook until slightly browned, about 5 minutes (this deepens the tomato flavor. The process is called pincé in French).
4. Lower heat to medium, add flour and mix well with a wooden spoon to make a roux. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 3 to 4 minutes. Stir the wine into the roux a little at a time, allowing the roux to absorb the liquid before adding more. (This will help avoid lumps). Be sure to scrape up any browned bits (Love Note 3).
Return the meat to the pan. Add the bouquet garni and enough stock to rise two-thirds of the way up the meat (the amount will vary with the size and type of pot you are using. But don’t cover the meat entirely. If you use too much liquid or you’ll dilute the flavors. The less liquid, the more concentrated the flavors). Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from heat, cover pot tightly with a lid or aluminum foil, and place on the center rack of the oven. Braise until beef is fork-tender (it should fall right back into the pan when pierced with a two-pronged fork), about 2 hours.
5. If serving immediately, lift the beef out of the pot using tongs or a spatula and keep warm on a plate tented with foil. Strain the sauce through a strainer into another pot (if you like, pick out the carrots and serve alongside the beef, but discard the rest of the solids). Let the sauce sit for a few minutes. Then degrease the sauce by dragging a ladle or spoon over the top of the sauce to catch any fat that has risen and discard. Repeat until most of the fat is removed.
If the sauce is too thin (see Love Note 4), set pot over medium-high heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid reduces and is slightly thicker. Taste and adjust the seasonings.
6. Using a sharp slicing knife, cut the beef across the grain into thick slices and serve with the sauce. (Don’t worry about getting beautiful slices – chunks of this meat are just as delicious.)
7. If making this ahead of time, (it keeps well in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days), remove the meat from pan and let it cool then place it in an airtight container and refrigerate. Strain the sauce into another container and refrigerate (you don’t have to defat it first). One hour before serving, remove the sauce from the refrigerator, scrape off any fat that has congealed on top and discard. Slice the beef and put it in an ovenproof serving dish, pour on the sauce, cover with foil, reheat in a 350°F oven for about 45 minutes, and serve.
Love Notes
1. Don’t use a cut of meat that is too good for the job. Braised dishes are meant to be made with less expensive cuts such as chuck. With long, gentle cooking, these tougher, fattier cuts become more tender, whereas lean, more expensive cuts actually toughen with long cooking times. If the roast is tied at 1 1/2-inch intervals it will hold together better for slicing.
2. Browning meat is a vital step in all braised dishes and stews. Contrary to popular belief, browning doesn’t “lock in juices,” but it does caramelize the outside of the meat which develops many different flavor compounds, each contributing depth to the final dish. The key to browning is a very hot pan – smoking hot. It should always preheat over high heat for several minutes before adding the oil and the meat. Keep the heat high while searing the meat or it will start to boil rather than brown.
3. The browned bits found on the bottom of a pan after sautéing are called the “fond” in French. The “fond” left in a pan has a lot of flavor, so you don’t want to let it go to waste. Because the fond is usually stuck to the bottom, the pan must be “deglazed” with a liquid that is poured into the pan to help loosen the browned bits. Scrape the bottom of the pan with a spatula or spoon, and voilà -- the fond is released and another layer of flavor is now added to your dish!
4. How can you tell when a sauce is the proper thickness? It coats the back of a spoon. How can you tell when it coats the back of a spoon? Dip the spoon into the sauce. Hold it horizontally, the back facing you, and run your finger through the center from the tip to the handle. If a line remains your sauce is thick enough. If the sauce immediately blends through the line, then it is too runny and should cook a bit more.
Commitment: You devote an entire chapter to macaroni and cheese--but wow, what unique and amazing things you've done with an old favorite! Can you share with us some of the macaroni and cheese combinations you've come up with?
Lisa: I knew I wanted Macaroni and Cheese on the menu at Mother’s, but I couldn’t just settle for the same old, same old.
So we offer a different Mac and Cheese each day, with a different topping or garnish.
Lisa's Favorite Macaroni & Cheese Combinations:
• roasted garlic, prosciutto ham & provolone cheese topped with parmesan
• broccoli & smoked cheddar cheese
• “Southwest” with pulled chicken
• red and green peppers, jack cheese and jalapenos, topped with chipotle cream & green onions
• smoked salmon, cream cheese, dill, capers & caramelized onions.
Commitment: What are some of the recipes from the breakfast menu at Mother's Bistro? What do you think makes the perfect weekend breakfast?
Lisa: Migas, which is corn tortillas, onions, peppers & jack cheese, topped with chipotle sour cream & green onions, Greek Frittata with feta cheese, garlic, fresh spinach, sun-dried tomatoes & kalamata olives, and Salmon Hash, with fresh diced salmon, leeks, potatoes & a touch of cream.
A perfect weekend breakfast is filling enough and delicious enough to carry you through your day without feeling so weighed down you need a nap.
Commitment: Can you share with us your five best tips for making a great sandwich?
Lisa's Five Best Tips for Making A Great Sandwich
- Pick the right bread for the job. Don’t use a hard-crusted baguette for a meatloaf sandwich, for example, or you’ll squeeze out the contents while trying to take a bite.
- Use the best ingredients you can afford. They all work together to make the sandwich delicious, so don’t scrimp. Pick the best quality bread, meat, cheese and mayonnaise (or make your own, like we do!)
- Choose ingredients that work well together. Ham and Swiss cheese are a perfect combination, bacon and cheddar another, prosciutto ham and provolone cheese. These can all work well with yet another protein like chicken breast and add an interesting mayonnaise and voilà – a great sandwich!
- Get creative with the sauce. A store-bought mayonnaise can taste like anything but with some additions like roasted garlic, sun-dried tomatoes (pureed a bit) & garlic, pesto, chile paste, and can take a “sammie” from ho-hum to wow.
- Choose accompaniments like lettuce, tomato and onion wisely. While they can add flavor and texture, you don’t want to go overboard or the flavors will overwhelm each other and you won’t be able to appreciate any of them.
Commitment: What is the process you experience when you set out to create a new recipe, or fine tune an old favorite?
Lisa: I think of combinations that work with other dishes and try to apply them to the ingredients with which I am working.
For example, if I am trying to think up a new macaroni and cheese, I’ll ask myself how I’ve seen a particular cheese used and with what it was paired. And usually, what works for a mac and cheese also works for eggs, so I’ll often get double inspiration for a breakfast special as well.
Roasted garlic, proscuitto and provolone mac and cheese becomes an Italian scramble with the addition of eggs, fresh tomatoes & basil.
Thinking about what goes into a stuffed potato, I came up with a Stuffed Frittata, an open-faced omelet with potatoes and cheddar cheese, topped with sour cream & green onions. That became a bacon & cheddar mac and cheese topped with sour cream & green onions.
When fine-tuning a recipe, I tap into the culinary education I got at The Culinary Institute of America and working in four-star restaurants in New York and France. I take that knowledge and apply it to a motherly dish, so it’s elevated from simple to complex and amazing.
A mother may show me how she puts chicken pieces in a pot and then tops it with mushrooms and calls it good. I’ll take those same ingredients and sauté them, adding many other layers of flavor where they weren’t before. I often say I serve mother’s cooking, only a bit better.
To Purchase "Mother's Best: Comfort Food That Takes You Home Again" click here.
